Daniel Roseberry invites us into the Schiaparelli salon, where we are immersed in a surrealist dream of hope, and creations that bring past, present and future together in the couture of color, shapes, embellishment and heritage.
At the house of Schiaparelli, as always Daniel Roseberry welcomes us into a brightly textured brilliantly off-kilter dreamscape, where he continues to converse within Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist universe, weaving current times and sentiments into the collection’s story. The welcoming spirit is a bridal dress in with billowing clouds of shapely taffeta, raising the pulse in anticipation as we enter the Place Vendôme salon.
“For two years, I’ve been saying that I didn’t care about nostalgia. This season, though, it’s where it all started. I found myself wondering, again and again: What if you combined a little Manet; a little Lacroix; a little 1980s; a little 1880s; a little matador; a little space alien; a little Ingres; a little shimmer; a lot of color?”
The result, is a collection that remains true to codes, but not beholden to Elsa, the continuation of last season’s emphasis on breaking couture and pushing past the rules, Roseberry brings us back to the beauty and hope of couture, finding the intersection of prettiness, edge, hope, shape and color in a collection of three parts.
The first pays tribute to the famous Schiaparelli jacket, with structural lines and heritage golden threads from the archive, barrel sleeves, tassels and ornately embroidered silk roses, a calling if you will to a collaboration between Schiaparelli and Jean Cocteau in 1937. The most iconic call is Look 1, a living collage of vintage swatches, exactly recreated by Françoise Lesage, the late couture embroiderer.
Second, an elemental dialogue between body and bijoux. Hard and soft, machine and human, metal and fabric. Golden lung branches, metal torsos, anatomical embroidery that shimmers in Giacometti-inspired gold, and of course the accessories, set against sever black crepe and structured shapes. Finally, an explosion of color, —cornflower blues, salmony pinks, terracotta oranges—just as celebratory as the shapes they form.