Kicking off our JVB New York Fashion Week coverage with Julia’s favorite shows, looks, and moments from Day 4 including Carolina Herrera, the Row, Tom Ford, Àcheval Pampa and more.
words by JULIA VON BOEHM • edited by DIANDRA BARSALOU MITCHELL • fashion week
In the spirit of authenticity and full disclosure, our NYFW SS20 coverage starts today on day 4 of the shows.
I have just flown back from preparing Ermano Scervino’s show for the upcoming Milano Fashion Week, which we’ll tell you more about in our exclusive coverage closer to the date! Back to New York, here are my favorite looks and highlights from the day.
Carolina Herrera
I am always happy to attend a Carolina Herrera show, especially since they are now helmed by Wes Gordon, a friend and designer I have collaborated with for many years. It is always a pleasure to see friends’ shows, and to be able to experience their way of thinking come to life on the runway. Wes has done such a great job of respecting the Herrera legacy and aesthetic while translating the house into his own language. Cut and construction lead the style, with strong shoulders, bright floral prints and delicate textural details that contrasted a vintage-esque volume. My personal favorites; Look 9: A tonal number showing high waisted exaggerated wide leg trousers with strong pleats and an oversized waist belt, Look 19: A blue and white striped short suit set with an 80s silhouette, Look 28: The loveliest fashion-business-boss blazer dress, again with an 80s bubble silhouette and oversized bow detail in back, and finally Look 47: A fun, flirty and slightly mischievous yellow polkadot dress— mischievous if only because it reminded me of the Marsupilami character in the most delightful sense.
Zimmerman
Zimmerman was a pleasure, in part to my front row seat mates, Laura and Katie Holmes, a woman whom I have seen to make strong decisions and remaining confident in herself, all while emanating cool in her understated yet fresh style. Two absolutely standout looks from Zimmerman’s Spring Summer 2020 collection; Look 29: A full length white lace dress with a pronounced collar and blouson sleeves cinched at the wrist, paired with a triangular take on a pointed t-strap bootie that both echoes and contrasts the fan-shaped lace, and Look 33: A classic figure skimming sweater dress in shimmering vertical color blocks.
While many of the fashion crowd take lunch, a quick coffee between shows or perhaps even an IV drip or some such treatment, I took a quick “break” to run back home for a family moment. One of my girls has just decided to take up guitar, and today was her first lesson.
The Row
The Row delivered true to their ever elegant, minimal sophistication-with-a-twist signature. The vibe was clean long shapes, even present in the openness of their studio which was empty save for two long white benches. I particularly liked Look 23: An off white all over crocodile effect midi length skirt and jacket, as well as the blue shirt and suiting looks towards the end, which felt traditional but with new shapes and styling.
Àcheval Pampa
Gorgeous presentation! Simple, bohemian, refined, and I got to catch up with Lucila Sperber, Sofia Acheval, and my dear friend Rebecca Dayan (pictured L-R). My friend Sofia has created such a beautiful translation of her styling aesthetic onto the runway, and I always admire people who break out and branch into new parts of their path and stay true to themselves. Sofia and the whole team (Delfina Blaquier, Nacho Figueras, Lucila Sperber) really built the company up as an Argentinian brand at the core of its fashion, and you can see the beauty and complexity of their working relationship and passion for the line in the gaucho-inspired looks with reimagined shapes and silhouettes. They also always throw the most enjoyable events without pretence or circumstance, and it speaks to who they are — amazing people who also happen to be passionate, driven, and fashion and Argentina obsessed in the best way possible.
Tom Ford
Tom took us underground, in a departure from his sleek luxurious showings. It felt a bit sombre but it is always interesting to see the fashion crowd in the subway— especially to attend Tom Ford— without their champagne, no carpet, and the gritty subway vibes complete with stiff seating. Recognizable in the collection were elements of the Tom Ford days of the 90s, when I was lucky enough to assist on his campaigns for Gucci and Saint Laurent.
Carolina’s Diner
Carolina Herrera Madison Store Opening Celebration
It was then time to celebrate the reopening of Carolina Herrera’s flagship store on Madison Ave at their reimagined downtown diner, Carolina’s. The American retro themed setting couldn’t have been more perfect, and while I admit to heading stealthily for a cozy booth where Wes’ mother sat, the cocktail list was the perfect toast to my good friend and of course, Carolina herself.
